{"id":7997,"date":"2026-03-24T12:39:36","date_gmt":"2026-03-24T11:39:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alatis.eu\/?p=7997"},"modified":"2026-03-25T11:50:44","modified_gmt":"2026-03-25T10:50:44","slug":"the-tabi-design-cases-before-the-euipo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alatis.eu\/en\/the-tabi-design-cases-before-the-euipo\/","title":{"rendered":"The \u201cTabi\u201d Design Cases before the EUIPO: When Prior Fashion Becomes Prior Art"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2><strong>Background of the case<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>On 10 January 2025, a multiple application covering seven EU designs (Nos. 015088814-0001 to 015088814-0007) was filed with the EUIPO by the Singapore-based company Cybrog PTE. LTD. The designs related to various shoes and ankle boots featuring a distinctive \u201cTabi\u201d split-toe construction.<\/p>\n<p>The French company Margiela Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 par actions simplifi\u00e9e subsequently filed an application for a declaration of invalidity against all seven designs.<\/p>\n<p>On 12 February 2026, the EUIPO Invalidity Division issued its decision, declaring all seven designs invalid.<\/p>\n<p>The decision is not yet final and may be appealed until 12 April 2026.<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Legal grounds for invalidity: individual character<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Margiela argued that the contested designs lacked both novelty and individual character in light of its earlier \u201cTabi\u201d footwear, which had been made available to the public prior to the filing date.<\/p>\n<p>The Invalidity Division focused its analysis on the lack of\u00a0<strong>individual character<\/strong>\u00a0under Article 6 of Regulation (EC) No 6\/2002.<\/p>\n<p>An European Union Design has individual character if the overall impression it produces on the informed user differs from that produced by any earlier design disclosed to the public. This assessment must take into account the degree of freedom of the designer.<\/p>\n<p>In the present case, the Division examined the evidence of prior disclosure submitted by Margiela and found that similar \u201cTabi\u201d shoes and ankle boots had been made publicly available on several occasions before the filing date.<\/p>\n<p>A comparison of the designs led the Division to conclude that the earlier \u201cTabi\u201d designs produced the same overall impression on the informed user. As a result, they constituted an obstacle to the individual character of the contested designs.<\/p>\n<h2><strong>No ex officio examination: a key feature of EU design law<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>This case illustrates a fundamental aspect of EU design protection: the EUIPO does not examine novelty or individual character at the registration stage.<\/p>\n<p>As a result, designs \u2014 including those based on traditional or pre-existing forms \u2014 are generally registered without substantive review.<\/p>\n<p>However, once an application for invalidity is filed, the EUIPO conducts a thorough assessment of prior art and may invalidate the design if the legal requirements are not met.<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Traditional forms as prior art<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>The decision also highlights how the EUIPO treats designs inspired by traditional or historical forms.<\/p>\n<p>Design elements derived from widely known or culturally rooted forms (such as traditional garments, craftsmanship, or patterns) may qualify as prior art, provided they were disclosed before the filing date.<\/p>\n<p>Interestingly, the EUIPO\u2019s analysis remains strictly focused on visual comparison and public availability. It does not take into account considerations such as cultural appropriation or the origin of the design.<\/p>\n<h2><strong>An increasing number of similar disputes<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>In recent years, design invalidity proceedings involving reinterpretations of traditional or established forms have become more frequent, particularly in the fashion and luxury sectors.<\/p>\n<p>This reflects both:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the growing importance of design protection in these industries, and<\/li>\n<li>the increasing reliance on existing visual vocabularies.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2><strong><br \/>\nLegal and reputational risks for brands<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>The \u201cTabi\u201d cases illustrate a dual risk for fashion brands.<\/p>\n<p>From a legal perspective, even where a design is inspired by a long-standing or traditional form, an earlier reinterpretation (such as Margiela\u2019s) may prevent subsequent designers from claiming exclusive rights.<\/p>\n<p>From a reputational standpoint, brands may also face criticism relating to cultural appropriation, especially where traditional cultural expressions are used without acknowledgment.<\/p>\n<p>These issues are currently being discussed at international level, notably within UNESCO and WIPO, in the context of the protection of Traditional Cultural Expressions (TCEs).<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Conclusion<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>The EUIPO\u2019s decision confirms that in EU design law, what matters is not the cultural origin of a design, but its prior disclosure and the overall impression it produces.<\/p>\n<p>For designers and brands, this means that inspiration \u2014 whether cultural or historical \u2014 must be approached with caution, both legally and strategically.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Our team will be happy to assist you in all intellectual property matters. At ALATIS we support your innovative and creative endeavors. To contact us:\u00a0contact@alatis.eu<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Anne DESMOUSSEAUX<br \/>\nFounding Partner<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Sources:\u00a0 Margiela SAS Vs CybrogPTE Ltd, EUIPO Invalidity Decisions of F\u00e9bruary 12, 2026<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Related articles:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/alatis.eu\/appropriation-culturelle-propriete-intellectuelle-mode\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/alatis.eu\/appropriation-culturelle-propriete-intellectuelle-mode\/<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/alatis.eu\/en\/cultural-appropriation-intellectual-property-fashion\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/alatis.eu\/en\/cultural-appropriation-intellectual-property-fashion\/<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/alatis.eu\/createurs-mode-fast-fashion\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/alatis.eu\/createurs-mode-fast-fashion\/<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Background of the case On 10 January 2025, a multiple application covering seven EU designs (Nos. 015088814-0001 to 015088814-0007) was filed with the EUIPO by the Singapore-based company Cybrog PTE. LTD. The designs related to various shoes and ankle boots featuring a distinctive \u201cTabi\u201d split-toe construction. The French company Margiela Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 par actions simplifi\u00e9e subsequently [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":8007,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[48],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7997","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-intellectual-property"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>The \u201cTabi\u201d Design Cases before the EUIPO: When Prior Fashion Becomes Prior Art | ALATIS<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"EUIPO 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